Cycling Questions and Answers
Need your lend a hand? I am looking to spend between $250 to $400 on a 26"mountain bike?
Question:I am a beginner and would similar to to know from all of you professionals out nearby what brand should I consider and why? Also where would you suggest I should purchase it from? Online, retail store, or a bike shop.
Thank you within advance.
Answers:
I other recommend going to your local bike shop(s). The employees here will be able to backing you pick out the right bike with the right fit for you. You can usually find honourable deals online, but you hold to know exactly what you are looking for and what size you need. Avoid retail stores as they fetch low quality, calorific bikes that are often poorly assembled.
Bike stores transport quality merchandise - Trek, Gary Fisher, Specialized, and Giant are some of the top brands. Each frame fits for a moment bit differently, so test ride different brands and models to see which one feel most comfortable to you. A good bike shop should also donate at least one initial tune up to adjust the bike after its break-in interval. Having this initial tune up will ensure that your bike rides smoothly for many years. The force can also give you undeveloped care instructions and hold other necessary products on foot and the knowledge to facilitate you decide what gear you have need of and what gear you don't need. By the course, if you feel pressured by the sale staff, go someplace else.
You will want to seriously consider what charitable of riding you will be doing - street, bike path, offroad. This will minister to you zero surrounded by your options. Most mountain bikes start at around $250 and are configured to be a rough and ready bike - versatile for getting around on cobblestone surfaces and in loose dirt. More expensive mountain bikes are better suited to off-road riding as they normally feature slightly different geometry and better components to maximize your power on loose dirt surfaces and allow for smoother, more responsive shifting on more offensive courses (they can still be ridden on the road), so if you will be doing a lot of scientific trail riding, look to the higher expire of your price range.
Happy cycling!
I'll market you mine.
First don't confuse frame size next to wheel size. All fully fledged mountain bikes have 26" wheel. This is standard. A scant few have 29" but in attendance are very deeply few. You will need to obtain measured for a frame size. Depending on your height, inseam, etc., it could be anywhere from 15" to 21". Definitely run to a bike store and talk to a conversant salesperson. You will get the most assist and the best ongoing service.
I have never see a mountain bike that is 26", unless you're a professional basketball player. Only cheap-o Wal-Mart bikes open market them as 26", but REAL bikes are measured by the frame, not the wheels.
The answer to genuine cyclists is to go to a definite bike shop. You cannot get the correct frame size by buying online unless you know EXACTLY what you are looking for, so agree to the people at your local shop bring you the right one.
Need rather bit of sustain..how might I clutch the gear set out of a Gary Fisher..Fischer? Marlin?
Question:I've already removed the rear tiller, but I'd like to know if I'll involve any special tools, or will I be able to rig near a couple of screwdrivers.
Answers:
There are several ways to change the gear ratio & changing the reverse gear cluster is just one ending of the chain drive.
Not one sure what the sprockets are I know that the biggest range on the elevated gear end will be a 11 tooth small tooth and probably a 52 or 53 on the life-size gear
The other end would be a expected a 32 ( unless it is a mega sprocket 34 more on that later) and a 32 at the pedal if used with the 52
You could conveyance the front gears.
I think the selection of gears in the front move about from
52 -42- 32 to 44 34 24 (if using a common 110 5 hole sprocket hole shape [an older impulsive size 5 hole bolt size for mountan bikes ])
Different hole patterns enjoy different gears available.
For instance the front could be a 97 bcd 5 hole size might have a selection of 42 32 22 of there abouts.
These can confidently be changed with a couple of the correct size allen wrenches.
The reverse gear cluster might be able to be removed beside a screw driver and wrench if you are clever enough and it is a gear cluster and not a freewheel. The tool(s) that they gossip about newly make the employment a whole lot easier.
A local bike shop will be , or should be tremendously happy to remove this for you for free
If it is a gear cluster the backside hub ( if it is slender ) will have a convey tale bulge on the gear side of the hub. If it does not own this bulge and it is a slim hub ( like give or take a few an 1 inch in diameter ) and not a a significant diameter hub . THis should be fairly in plain sight when you look at the rear hub.
If it is a slim diameter hub and does not own the 'bulge' on the gear side it is very promising a free wheel to be exact scewed on and will definatey need a special tool to remove the reverse gear cluster. Again the LBS ( local bike shop) will likely do this for free
There is also an issue nearly the rear shifter.
Some flipside shifters can only shift to a in no doubt large size gear for example a 30 or 32 size big gear and can handle so much manacle up take normally referred to range. This refers to the belief that as you change the gears the shifter arm moves to lift up the slack of the chain and within is only so much slack that can be taken up by any distinctive shifter. ,
This might be another reason to call round a local bike shop but since you have access to the internet you can look up the be paid and model of ther rear shifter and swot more
Sheldon Brown has several articles that tell all just about bikes
http://www.sheldonbrown.com
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/articles.htm...
http://www.wideopenwest.com/~lipetz/bicy...
^ ^ ^ ^ gear calculator ^ ^ ^ ^
Larger gears are for going down hill smaller gear ratio for going up hill
You'll need a removal tool, depending on what type of cogset you hold (shamano, etc...) You'll also most likely involve a chainwhip, and a good wrench. You can attain either from ceremonial bike. Once you have adjectives the proper tools, it's a very simple opening.
Lockring tool and a chain lash, both from Nashbar for like 10 bucks.
http://www.nashbar.com/results.cfm?subca...
You run to digging around with a couple of screwdrivers, and it'll shutting down up costing you a lot more.
your bike have a shimano cassette in instruct to remove it you need a splined cassette/ freewheel removal tool & a secure whip to hold the cassette from moving when you use the tool to remove the boater. it is a simple job and you MAY be capable of use punches or screw drivers but I DON'T recomend it!! for less afterwards the price of the proper tools you can have your local bike shop do it right ( I don,t charge for it if I sold them the cassette or save $2 or $3 it only take about 1min.) I JUST REREAD YOUR QUESTION those nuts your looking at are the axel position cones and spacer DON"T touch them unless you know what your doing they can be a real stomach-ache to adjust! look at the cassette the end hat has splines THAT is how yoy remove the cassette the tool inserts into the splines GO TO www.parktools.com you will see the tools mentioned above and also instructions on how to use them GOOD LUCK ;-}
Ladies, do you resembling biker guyz?
Question:What do you like?
1. merely getting to ride.
2. Crotch Rocket or Crusier?
3. Short hair or Long tresses for the guy?
4. Rough cut or clean cut?
5. Does what you wear pull somebody`s leg and please when your with your biker guy?
All I can meditate about is getting bad work so I can ride. Maybe your answers can help verbs me through..LOL
Answers:
F*ckin'-A yeah!
1. Ride. Getting to ride. Standing nearby (with a beer). The nouns when a herd of bikes go by. The smell of exhaust fumes. The sunlight glinting off the chrome. The smell of leather, etc...
2. Cruisers mostly. And interesting custom job. But it's all honest.
3. Bald.
4. Kinda stubbly. With tattoos. And big shoulders. And perky butts wrapped in well-worn jeans. And.economically, guys that look like bikers.
5. Uh, jeans and a halter top and boots? And isn't my biker guy s'posed to be the one coy and pleasing?
Two weeks until Rolling Thunder!!!
u crazy but i answer cause i similar to you
i like to ride and i other tease and please its contained by my nature
come pick me up, let's go early
The ladies resembling us bikers who have a rock tough stomach and butt from riding and racing bikes minus engines, unlike budweiser swilling pot bellied motorheads who are too lazy to amount out how to quit smoking. This is a BICYCLING forum you gas fume addled twit.
Yessir.If they got a hott bod!! lol
Bikers ride Harleys, You, are a motorcycle rider. You're also on the wrong page.
This is the Cycling Forum not the Wanna-Be Motorcycle Rider forum. Take your time to read and have a handle on where you are posting. You might know how to meet a girl on the right forum.
Grow up & come spinal column in at least possible 10 years.
Hey Guy,
You are posting a motorcycle poll on a Bicycle question / answer forum. Sounds approaching you are lonely and desperate! Go to Yahoo personals you will have better luck in that. Geesh clueless!
Nikki
"Bike cycle riders, cry to someone else. This was the closest contest I saw."
------------------------------...
a2z_4me,
A closer match would be within the "MOTORCYCLE Racing" section. All they speech about is "MOTORCYCLES" not Bicycles within that section.
Of course ladies love BICYCLISTS!
What woman doesn't close to a fit, athletic guy with the stamina and strength to execute a repetitive pumping motion for hours on end?! Besides, the ladies love shaved legs, too!
And what masculine cyclist doesn't love the toned, sexy legs of a female cyclist? MMMMMM-MMMM!
Nobody like fat, sweaty, unshorn guys with butt jewelry who can't post within the correct category.
Does sand a weld on a mountain bike destabilize the weld?
Question:Companies like Cannondale sand the weld on their mountain bikes. It seems to me that this would render impotent the weld and, by extension, the frame overall. Is this true? I know Cannondale's triangle has be shown to be extraordinarily strong, but I'm more concerned with the half-hearted point in the system.
Answers:
Sanding any warmth treated metal would take bad a finite measure of the surface solidity, when a metal is heat treated near will always be slight fluctuations contained by its mechanical properties throughout the guage of the metal due to boil transfer, accordingly, it depends on where the optimum strength point contained by the thickness of the tube is (inside or on the terrifically outside) as to how much sanding the metal would affect the strength. This logically, depends on the actual treatment process.
As for welds, I don't know whether they can be temper to match the frame afterwards, but I don't estimate they ever are [if possible]. This means that sand a weld will not affect it's mechanical strength properties as they will be alike throughout.
The material around the weld is the weakest point as the illustrious heat used to weld aluminium conducts with alacrity through the metal, damaging, to an extent, the finish created by the temper process (a good mfr - similar to Cannondale, will be able to keep a tight rein on the damage to singular a small level).
Because of this, Cannondale sand their welds to create a smooth finish as this removes any stress risers (angles, dips/undulations, dents e.t.c. found surrounded by a normal overlapped weld) that are the start points for critical failiure, any through heavy impact or fatigue. This resources that their frames are stronger, and more durable at the joins; allowing for lighter frame materials and removing the stipulation for ugly reinforcing gussets at the join (headtube, disc mount areas e.t.c.).
A Cannondale frame is a more superior frame!
No, you would have to sand pretty darn cavernous to have an impact on the strength of a weld. Especially a robotic weld which is so precise.
merely if you grind into the metal
I think they assessment their product enough that you shouldn't enjoy to worry just about it. otherwise, eventually, people would stop buying their bikes.
I woulldn't sand it yourself though, if that's what you're getting at.
The weld is 3 times thicker than the frame.Weld is melt metal. Removing some isn't going to hurt anything
If they are just sand off the extra solder from the weld, here is no problem. If they begin to sand away solder to be exact actually inbetween the weld, later it starts to weaken it. Most possible, the type of sanding they do does not effect the strength of the weld.
it would render impotent it only a bit
those weld, if done right are as strong as the metal itself, if its on a backhoe or something maybe it might not be strong plenty, on a bike, the weld is strong enough
Depends on the depth of the sand. If they are sanding to the surface later it will not affect the weld. If it is sanded below the surface later it does. The only sector of the weld that has an affect on the strength of the frame is that part of the pack that is contiguous beside the metal itself.
Sanding any joint have the potential of making it weaker. I guess sanding a weld approaching this is purely cosmetic and will not weken it at all. Kind regard.
when a joint is weld, the tinsil strength of that joint is stronger than the surrounding metal. the anly passageway that weld will brake, is if it ws a poor and weak weld to originate with.sand blasting will not undercut it.
The weld would not weaken - the competence standards that the company has to hang to (something similar to NADCAP approval) to be allowed to sell the product, ensure the integrity of the weld prior to mart to the general public - the weld would be subjected to test such as dye penetrant inspection (crack test) and x-ray.
The weld itself is usually stronger than the parent metal due to the changes contained by the metallic structure at high temperature, the strength would at the very smallest be equal to the parent metal meaning that as long as the weld is same compactness as the rest of the frame, there would be no nouns of weakness that you should be concerned going on for.
If you were to sand straight down to the frame, afterwards yes, however, if it's still visibly thicker than the rest of the bike, then no, it's not a hint weaker than the weld on say..my GF Marlin.
Sanding or grinding a weld to be smooth reduce "stress risers" in the rough weld. By eliminate the stress risers present in a rough weld, the shared actually become less prone to disaster at these weak spots. I've see more frames broken at an unfinished weld amalgamated than the smooth joints of a Cannondale or Klein.
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