Cycling Questions and Answers
Need info on buying a mountain bike and how much to spend?
Question:I'm looking to get a mountain bike above all just to putt around town and do curbs and hill and things but I do want the option to enjoy a decent bike if I did want to move about on dirt trials and get more into the sport next to out it falling apart or being second-hand goods . I was wanting to spend around 300 us but after some research I hear it would be better to spend around 5 to 600 us and you can get hold of a much more quality bike that you can afterwards later upgrade parts on if you want . so I guess my question are
If I get the 300 dollar bike(schwinn,GT,Treck) would I regret it subsequently on cause my bike wont concluding?
If I get the 600 dollar bike(GT,Treck cannondale,allot more ) would I be wasting my Money mete out I'm not the"serious hardcore"mountain biker and it would be a waist of a bike?
Last question is what's the best brand for my buck surrounded by those price ranges ? I don't want to get stuck getting the one the sale guy is trying to move off the floor and tell me it the best even though it isn't
Thanks
Answers:
For 500 to 600 dollars you can get a nice hardtail bike (front suspenion only) that will work find for around town and dirt trails. Check your local bike shop for deal, I would stay away from big retail stores like Walmart or Target. The difference between a 300 and 600 dollar will probably be components more than bike frame related. 600 will bring you a better fork, maybe disc brakes and middle echelon deraillers.
As far as the best brand for your buc, try Ironhorse, KHS, or GT. You'll probably get better components for cheaper than similarly built Treks or Cannondales.
Giant is another smaller amount expensive brand, but the first thing is a angelic frame,at that price point an aluminum frame. Stay as low in price as you can getting an nouns fork, forks with rubber inside for suspension don't concluding long. Oh and another bike to check out would be one from Specialized
If you can afford the extra money, the payout is a much more reliable and easy to keep up bike. The biggest difference between the 300 and 600 dollar bike is in the components.
You go and get a much higher level wheel, shifter, deraileur, crankset, etc next to the extra money spent. It makes adjectives the difference when you start to push the bike a little and miss a shift or your brakes don't slow you down like greased lightning enough. Takes adjectives the fun out of riding.
Your best "bang for the buck" will be a hardtail MTB beside a front suspension fork. This is a sturdy, lightweight frame (usually aluminum in this price range) beside a suspension fork, flat handlebars, and 24-30 speeds.
Trek (my pesonal favorite), Giant, GT, and Iron Horse all receive pretty good offerings contained by this price range, so find a local bike shop or two that will agree to you take respectively of your choices on a test ride, and choose from near.
my picks are:
Trek 4500- 519.99
Giant Yukon- 470.99
Iron Horse- Warrior Comp- 549.99
GT- Avalanche 2.0 - 450.00
I will mention that I owned a Trek 830 for 11 years that I just replaced near a new Trek 6500, single because I was bored beside the 830, it was still within good shape.
Why is my tie up slipping on my cycle bike?
Question:I have simply replaced my chain on my Marin hawk hillock and the chain is slipping, I've placed the fasten alongside the old one and made it alike size and upto now I've removed going on for 8 links using the propper tool, the chain feel ok when I'm in low gear " biggest cog on the rear" but when I'm putting strain on the peddle and using the smallest cog's "7th, 8th and 9th gears" it's slipping close to mad, do I stipulation to take more links bad?
Answers:
As long as the chain is close to all along the old one it should work. You should probably replace the cassette. If the derailleur is working properly, a manacle that is too long will not wreak this problem.
Chains and cogs wear together. When you replace just the tie up, the new secure has smaller number wear on the rollers so they are actually larger than the infirm ones. The new rollers on the cuff don't mate porperly with the worn teeth and will skip, _especially_ when you put power to the pedals. It will be most noticable contained by the smaller cogs, and the ones that you use most often. FWIW, within 25 years I have never have a largest rear cog that skipped, It's other been the smaller ones.
probly you put it on wrong or you broght the wrong size
It`s not tight plenty , adjust your deraliar, or take a connect out...
Sounds like it to me.
Ur going to hold to size the chain so that it is qualified on the highest gears and still huge enuf for the lowest gear of largest cog. I know, it can be frustrating, but it is a matter of tweaking.
i mull over you need some links taking out of the secure needs to be tight,xx
Adjust the posterior wheel, by pulling it backwards until the secure tightens.
I have one and the same problem right now solely on a road bike. Check the chainrings in the front or cogs as some ethnic group know them. They could be worn out. If the teeth on the cogs are worn, it can cause slippage. Check the cassette too. You might own to replace both. Usually when I buy a new tie up I replace the cassette too.
If its actually slipping and you've made sure its get the correct number of links, then probability are the teeth are worn on the gears that are affected.
Its also possible that the derailleur is in reality phantom shifting, which can feel close to slipping, and occurs chiefly when you apply a lot of pressure to the chainset, such as when you're contained by higher gears or riding up a steep hummock.
If its this, then you call for to adjust the derailleur/s so that they have the correct alignment, next your chain will stay where on earth you expect it to be.
As a racing cyclist I knowledgeable this lesson years ago.New chain method new block otherwise it will slip.Your existing block will enjoy worn with the prehistoric chain so the current chain very soon slips on it.
ask any good cycle shop they will confirm this.
check the shifting "ramps" on the inside of the front rings- if worn they can incentive your chain to slip underneath pressure.
It is also advisable that when you change your cuff, you service the whole drive train at once, since they adjectives wear together. The parts sort of blend into one another, so when you just redeploy one thing the cog may not exactly matte near the chain 100% of the time. Change At lowest possible the back cog and the tie up, if the front rings look worn them to. ($$)
If you service your chain and cog adjectives the time the same you can stockpile your front rings from excessive damage.
Sounds resembling you need 9 spd shimano. For tooth collection just count the small one and the biggest ring contained by the cog.
Also check CABLE TENSION of all front and flipside Der.
good luck
Is Austin, TX a good town to do some serious road biking around (not in, but around)?
Question:I know Lance lives and trains there. Is it kinda like a San Diego? Or is more like dangerous rednecks and roads with traffic and/or poor conditions?
Answers:
Austin, TX area may be one of the best in the country to do some serious cycling. Lots of very good cyclists set up team camp to put in base miles.
San Diego is very crowded.
Keep pedalling and train hard!
Cycling after concussion?
Question:I was mucking around on Saturday jumping on my husbands posterior playing bucking bronco..
Don't even ask.LOL :)
he had hold of both my legs around his waist, when this giant gonk here decide to let shift of his shoulders with both hand..My husband still had ahold of my legs..I go flying backwards & smacked my head on the pavement....knock myself out for a few seconds.hubby say my eyes were rolling & I vomited..an ambulance be called & I spent the subsequent 5 hours in hospital..I don't recollect a lot roughly it although I'm getting flashbacks now..I haven't have any headaches as such.freshly pain from the bump on the vertebrae of my head & dizziness.
I'm training for the London to Brighton bike run which is within just over 4 weeks time.
When will it be undamaging for me to get spinal column out there cycling? I don't want another dribble & certainly don't want to put others contained by danger if it's too precipitate yet.
I know it may give the impression of being like a daft quiz but, what do you think?
Answers:
If you can stand on one leg beside your eyes shut and your arms outstretched for 20 secs then you're OK. Sod the doctor - who requests to "take it easy" anyway!
I would suggest seeking professional counsel from a doctor. Concussion can have strange effects and can finishing a while.
You mention this dizziness you are still experiencing. This can be dangerous if it occur when cycling.
Definitely get some professional suggestion before getting put money on in training!
Good luck for the bike run if u do get better though! :-)
When I had concussion, I be told not to ride for at least 2 weeks, and merely then if I feel completely better. Concussion is a wierd thing, and can come fund to bite you without restraining (dizziness etc).
For as long as you are dizzy, I wouldn't even think of getting on a bike.
sports-faq.com isn't the place to ask this - concussion is a serious condition, and you should discuss it beside a qualified person.
You for sure shouldn't be riding so soon after a concussion, as apart from anything else, you just don't know when its going to hit you again - you could be riding down a nice steep hillock on a busy main road, simply to get dizzy or even lose consciousness, next to dire consequences. It'll be a shame to miss the ride (I'm starting training my fat self for it in a minute, for next year) but at the train of the day you gotta put condition first.
We aren't doctors here. You need to carry this advice from the physician who treated you, or your primary doctor after he have reviewed your case.
The merely advice I would grant is to be safe to some extent than sorry. If there are any question regarding your salvage, don't do it. The last article you want is to have some severe damage or loss from an aneurysm because your brain didn't properly heal.
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