Cycling Questions and Answers
Does anyone know of any fitting road map websites, preferably(sp) something next to topography?
Answers:
check out http://veloroutes.org, you can click out your route and see the total distance, and an elevation graph your route.
you can see a topographic overlay of the map (for the U.S.) too.
yes yahoo and satellite too
Why is wearing cycling shoes big?
Answers:
The sole is much more stiff than others, allowing you to ride longer distances in comfort. Traditional shoes flex, cause your foot muscles to be stretched and flexed for the entire time on your regular pedals. With clipless pedals and shoes, one's foot stays straight. Furthermore, when you pedal with regular shoes, the shoes hold some of your power when you pedal. This became adjectives to me yesterday when I tried using my dress shoes to ride in. Cycling shoes are also specifically designed to vent more nouns through, drying up all the sweat that can engender your feet tenderness. All of these benefits are great, especially on longer rides.
So, clipless pedals and shoes equals more power output, greater comfort, and less sweating
Plus the upswing, you can't pedal upwards next to wal-mart pedals.
Clipless pedals kick butt on hill, and let you use the partner of muscles you never used before. I suggest that for mountain biking, on slippery uphills you can get more traction. This is because the pedal stroke is more fluid, so there's force applied throughout the stroke, not only one big surge when you push downwards on your pedals.
To protect your feet from injury.
So dogs can't bite your foot as harshly.
better power verbs
better control
if you want to have cleats & clip contained by pedals, you have to own the proper shoes (you can't just bolt onto a twosome of sneakers)
comfortability
go read a book kid, and edify yourself. dumbass
In addition to the stiffer sole and better power verbs, having cycling shoes next to clipless pedals gives you the flair to transfer power to the pedal through the intact pedaling motion. Rather than just pushing down on the pedals you can grip your hamstrings to verbs back and up on the pedal... try this sometime and you'll be shocked at how much more modernized this kind of circular pedaling motion really is.
On a mountain bike have mtb specific shoes/pedals really helps you control the rear legs end of the bike.
you know, i tested the theories on my own roughly speaking the difference in power verbs through the use of different shoes. I've owned and used cycling shoes on mountain bikes and on road bikes. I've also ridden both types in hiking shoes and sneakers. I've come to this conclusion: for mountain biking, I'll probably never wear cycling shoes again or at lowest possible never wear the cleats again. I have found that my Columbia hiking shoes work merely as good as my cycling shoes beside limited loss within the stroke. On the road bike side though, cycling shoes make a HUGE difference. If you do road bike stuff for fun or robustness or competition, you need cycling shoes. the stroke is much more modernized with them on. bottom rank, mountain bike: hiking shoes work just as dutiful as cycling shoes while road bike stuff you need to use cycling shoes to catch the best outcome.
What accoutrements should I hold along when riding?
Answers:
I carry an extra tube or two, patch apparatus, pump, multi-tool, tire boot patches, tire lever (quick stik), nouns cartridges, etc.
food, water, etc.
other wear your helmet, and it is a good hypothesis to carry a cell phone
Whiskey bottle, shotgun, souffle mold.
boom box j/k
sea, food, flat repair (tire lever, extra tube, either CO2 tape and gun or pump, map (if new territory) multi-hex tool, phone, drivers card and medical insurance... and lastly some cash/atm card surrounded by case adjectives else fails. I preserve most of the repair stuff in a bike backpack, but use one of those zip-lock sandwich bags for the phone/ID and dosh. also, I stick food and stuff in my jersey pocket.
festive riding!
helmet- safety.
When road biking: I pass water, phone, ID and debit card, for a moment cash, multitool, a tube, patch tools, mini pump, tire levers, extra manacle link w/ pins, some gel or other food stuff, a few ibuprofen just surrounded by case and if I don't know the route I'll purloin along a map in my jersey pocket.
When mountain biking I'll embezzle all that stuff and throw some duct video and a little first-aid apparatus in my camelback- purely make sure you're taking the right size tube beside you!
in my panier I other have a patch kit/1 tire lever/Y shaped allen wrench/Y shaped socket wrench.[.the Y shape give you a little extra torque] 6 inch adjustable wrench/small appendage pump/ 1 tube...along with the given items..headlight and flashing reflector..
Depending how far you turn and what type of riding, road or mountain. On the most part, helmet is the number one. cary an extra tube, small pump, cell phone, river bottle, wear comfort shorts or paints, breathable clothing, etc.
to carry the lowest amount of weight, filch a multi-tool (topeak alien rocks!), a patchless kit (small one is fine, comes beside glueless patches and some co2 cartridges, co2 gun, and at lowest 3 tire levers. That is it. to be precise all i fetch on the trails. You can carry some lube or extra lever or food and water but supplement wise, to be exact all you NEED to enjoy with you. Just get hold of yourself a good multi-tool (usually smaller quantity than $40) to take the place of adjectives the crap you could load your pack next to. You could take another tube but unless you ride though an nouns with a great deal of thorns, glass or fundamentally sharp rocks, i'd say you are okay. Just gain good tires for your bike.
Racing Road Bike recommendation please?
Question:can anyone recommend a good lightweight race road bike which I could pick up 2nd hand for give or take a few lb150?
Answers:
Try to go aluminum beside carbon seatstays. You'll find Giants and Cannondales are good for competence and price, and race plenty swift.
Try to get a shimano ultegra group because it's not pricy as campy or durace, and works only as well.
This is the right time of year to be looking, because when the road season ends, racers hold had it and will be looking to upgrade.
You should know how to aquire a 2nd hand cannondale for that ammount. I would suggest going to a bike specialty shop, they will device you to fit a bike (this can make a big difference overall). Then if here isn't a bike that suits your needs contained by the shop you can try Ebay.
Get yourself a copy of Cycling weekly and look in the classifieds, your more potential to get a not bad bike and not get ripped rotten.
dont do it
trek is real honest but i dont know if u can find one that cheap, specialized and giant are also good bikes
Ok. There are lots of obedient road bikes. Don't spend the money on a Trek or Cannondale. They are over priced. A Fuji is the same frame as Trek. Leader is a small company that get their frames from the same place bianchi does. More than partially the cost is the components. So try to get a stability of light frame and wishy-washy components. Don't spend a lot on silly things close to seat and hose down bottle cages.
Not sure how much specifically in $$.
There are lots good affordable bikes out near. If the word "racing" is required in the bike you buy, next I would suggest a Cannondale R900. It's a race geared up bike with Campy parts. It runs roughly $1700 USD.
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