Cycling Questions and Answers


Which stumpjumper?

Question:I'm getting ready to purchase a strange stumpjumper, but I can't decide which one to buy. I unequivocally want a full suspension, but I don't know enough around bikes to decide if it's worth the money to take home the jump from the principal to more advanced bikes. I'm not even sure what the difference is between the comp, pro, expert, s-works, and elite. Obviously, within is a weight difference, but what is the component difference? Is this difference worth the money to a initiate biker who now have the time to start riding a great deal and hopes to be race this summer?
Answers:


First of all, you're guetting a vastly, very moral bike.

There's a lot of difference contained by price between the basic entry and the S-Works.

S-Works is the model where on earth Specialized puts the most stuff, sometimes better frame material, etc.. In this valise, there is a Carbon S-Works, while the rest is aluminium.. But freshly ocmpare prices and the basic go at 2,200 usd msrp, while the carbon goes for 6,500..

Honestly, between the Comp and the Elite models, I don't deduce there's much difference. You'll get a fork where on earth you can change the travel on the restricted (Fox Talas), and on the comp you can't (Fox Float). I had the Talas a while rear legs, and while it was nice to switch travels when climbing and when descending, usually I not here it alone, so maybe that's not a big concern.

Both models use like rear shock and wheel, which would be the next entity I'd consider, so, advantages to none.

Brakes, on both you'll get roughly the same brakes, but on the -7 you can adjust how far you want to verbs the level formerly the caliper hits the rotor, nice but probably not worth it.

On the drivetrain (cranks, deraileurs and such), while the Elite have some components better (crankset), overall you're choosing between Shimano and Sram. Both are well brought-up and work fine, but I'm hearing better reviews on the SRAM stuff.

On the Expert (3,300 usd), you'll roughly just draw from the Brain Fade rear shock. This might be flawless for racing because it will breed pedaling a little better on XC stuff ( I don't know how in good health the Brain works overall).

The pro (4200) you get a slightly better fork (Talas RLC vs Talas RL), better backside hub and wheels.

I don't know your budget, but I would really muse you have more than plenty bike on the Comp (entry level). If you have some more money that you don't want, or want a better bike, skip the Elite and travel for the Expert.
If you are planning on racing this summer, you might want to check out the epic from specialized. It is patently a more race-inspired bike. I have ridden both...in attendance is a difference in pedal helpfulness, rider position, and the ride in nonspecific.
The stumpjumper is for the rider who enjoys the big jump and loves the downhill.
The epic is for the rider who wants a hardtail, but know he/she is faster on a dual suspension.
Check out www.specialized.com for more information. Weigh your options...entry smooth stumpjumper you have disc brakes, but lose the brain(an inertia stopcock that keeps pedaling efficient); entry height epic lose the disc, but keep the brain.
If the website doesn't support any, search around the bike shops for a specialized provider that has demo stumpjumpers and epics. It's free.



What is the most expensive bicycle brand?

Question:And how much does the world's most expensive bicycle cost? I am a bicycle fanatic.
Answers:


If your conversation overall cost for the most expensive bikes you can look at a number of soaring end companies, Merlin, Seven, Colnago, Pinerallo. I know Merlin have a ti/carbon mix frame that with a full DA group runs close to 10K. I've have to a chance to see one of these and ride it as the guy brought it into the shop for repairs. Beautiful craftmanship and wonderful ride.

As for the most expensive bicycle:

On October 20 2005 at the Lance Armstrong Foundation Gala an anonymous buyer purchased a Madone 5.9 SL that be donated by Trek and jeweler Alan Friedman. The bicycle is covered with gold ingots and man-made diamonds and sold for $75,000.00 USD making it the world's most expensive bicycle.

Taken from:
http://thelongestlistofthelongeststuffat...
Not certain, but my bike's labled next to the Jeep logo, so I should surmise it's a product of a subsidiary of DaimlerChrysler, unless they're just commiting copyright infringement. So, if motor companies are getting into the business of making bikes, I'd rather resembling a Lincoln brand bike, and if one such bike was ever made, I should expect that it would be fairly more expensive than the rest.
There's a Brand "Mercedes" and is probably the car inventor. Dont think it is available here, cos nobody crazy adequate to pay the price.
rolls royce
most dignified end version from any company get up in attendance, maybe cervello,lightspeed,trek to moniker a few
Columbine bicycles are exquisitely beautiful traditional, lugged steel frames. The lugs are adjectives hand carved and polished out of stainless steel, the frames are foot painted, they're all custom geometry and made to lay down, and you can even get gemstone set into the frame!

The cost for a road frame starts at $3200, which is still less than a $4,000 full carbon Look 496 Tri frame & fork. But that $3200 is the STARTING price since you get fancy lugs, pinstriping, custom paint, etc. There own been rumors of a Columbine frame topping $15,000, near gold inlays and diamonds on the frame. Remember, these are frames & forks ONLY, not the entire bicycle!


Take a look at the join below, and be sure to see the "Earth to Sky" photo. Remember, everything on the frame is completely handmade. Not everyone appreciates the beauty of a simple bike frame, but they're clearly worth a look (no pun intended).



How do u mend a bike puncture?

Question:how do u mend a bike puncture
Answers:


Check if there are discernible signs of where the puncture is. Remove the tube, making sure of how it be oriented inside the tire (helps pinpoint the location and source of puncture). Pump the tube near enough nouns so you can look for leaks. If it leak in a seam or around the tap stem or is too large, throw it away and use a unsullied tube. Once you located the puncture, lightly sand the nouns and then apply a self-sticking patch (similar to a Band-Aid, see links):
http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.
http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.
Look inside the tire around the corresponding nouns of the puncture and remove foreign objects. If puncture is on the side where the spoke holes are, a spoke may be sticking out or a spoke hole have some burrs. Protect the tube with a dollar bill (not kid, paper money is comparatively strong for this purpose). Reinsert the tube slightly inflated and fully inflate once tire is fully mounted. Once you get home, try to install a current tube.
Scrub the area of the tube next to emery paper where on earth the hole is really well and if the patch is going over any seam take them down too so it's completely smooth contained by that area. Clean near some alcohol, let dry and apply your cement. Spread cement next to finger over a larger area next the patch will cover, as soon as it changes color and dries for a while apply the patch and hold firmly on for a minute or two. Make sure you check tire for the source of the flat and remove it or you'll get another puncture.
I found this ebay guide on Bicycles deeply interesting.
Well I smile nice at a cute guy & then they do it for me! hehehe



Why do the spokes on my mountain bike hang on to breaking?

Question:i keep breaking spokes on the hindmost tire of my mtb (hard tail Gary Fisher) and i only really ride off-road trails (no jump or anything).
Answers:


Either you're heavier or stronger than your wheel can optimally pilfer. Go to a really good bike shop and ask the assessment of their wheel builder. He'll propose option that will work for you.
Probably a slightly warped pedals
could be defective spokes or hub, take it to your local bike shop and ask
Probably have something to do with the spokes that are replaced and the overall ability of the wheel. The joystick needs to be true and the spoke rigidity needs to be uniform. An aging helm, even with near replaced spokes and trued, will continue to dribble apart. Whatever workloads have be put on the wheel, fatigued the metal. I would look into replacing or rebuilding the rudder.
Agree with Ben. Spokes shouldn't break. If they do, that is to say a symptom of something more serious.
i work on bikes and this is common the spokes are defective or while riding the trail even the slightest piece will mess up spokes for people riding that are nearly 250+ just for a while bump will cause the spokes to snap.


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