Cycling Questions and Answers
How do you give somebody a lift a bmx cassette bad of the axle so you can put a driver on it?
Answers:
sorry to say but you cant. near is no way surrounded by the world it is possible.
you can't.
What are bike gears and what do they do?
Question:I only have one bike in life span, which was a present. It be a kids bike so there be no gears I could use and stuff. But now that I enjoy outgrown the bike, I am shopping around for a new one. I see the handlebars hold this controller thing that appears to be gears or something, and I hold no idea what they be determined and how they work. Also, I see bikes advertised as "21-speed Bike" and etc, what does that be going to?
Answers:
You have lead a sheltered life, haven't you.
The gears are used to spawn cycling easier. Higher gears are used downhill to gain speed without pedaling approaching mad, while the lower gears are for going uphill where on earth you pedal faster but expend less energy.
A 21 speed bike has 21 speeds available. That one would own 7 speeds on the rear pedals and 3 on the pedal sprocket 3 x 7 =21. The 3 pedal sprocket gears are used for general speed continuum changing. The lowest for use within hilly country, the second for flat and the top speed length for downhill. The (7) rear controls gears are used for uphill and downhill as I described before.
Single gear is what you hv currently is rather tiring when go up slope and it is bit slow while comparing next to gear 18 & 21 speed bike is faster. You can chg the gear to lighter weight when cycle up slope. I use to hv a single gear bike to sent and fetch my kids. Its whip me 30min to reach hm. Now next to my 18 speed bike I can reach hm 15min closer.
Briefly:
The gears allow you to change the turn ratio from the front sprocket to the support sprocket. In other words it changes how much force and speed you call for to move the back joystick. This is done by changing the ratio of the pedal turns versus the rudder turns. In lower gears you need more turns by the pedals to turn the flipside wheel (making it easier to move the fund wheel) and in highly developed gears you need smaller number go arounds to move the stern wheel (making it harder to move the wheel).
This allows you to progress up a hill near less hard work (although much slower) using lower gears and also lets you budge faster in flat or down mount by using higher gears.
Derailleur gears are a fluctuating ratio transmission system commonly used on bicycles, consisting of a fasten, multiple sprockets and a mechanism to move the cuff from one sprocket to another. Although widely referred to as "gears", bicycle "gears" should properly be referred to as sprockets since they are driven by, or drive, a chain; and are not driven by one another.
Modern front and backside derailleurs typically consist of a moveable chain-guide that is operate remotely by a Bowden cable attached to a shift lever mounted on the down tube, handlebar stem, or handlebar. When a rider operates the lever while pedaling, the convert in cable rigidity moves the chain-guide from side to side, "derailing" the chain onto different sprockets. Both to guide the tie up to the selected sprocket and to keep going chain stiffness by taking up any slack caused by varying to a smaller sprocket, the rear derailleur have two pulleys in a spring-loaded rotating coop, through which the chain rolls within an S-shaped pattern. The pulleys are agreed as the guide pulley (top) and the tension pulley (bottom). Together they are commonly referred to as the jockey pulleys or wheel. The front derailleur has a round up that should touch the chain lone while shifting between the front chainrings.
bikes can have tons varieties of gears a verbs gear which you would twist within a cricle to change the gear a click gear be you would tap a button or push something surrounded by to change. Gears are for what condituions your are riding within (uphill or downhill or even flat) a higher gear is harder to pedal but you can travel faster its usually used for downhill. A lower gear is easier to pedal but you go slower usually used for uphill. and middle gears which used contained by flat sometimes. 21 stands for the total gears possible on the bike on the left you will enjoy 3 gears usually called the cranks. On the right are your cassets which are 7 variets of difficulties for that sure crank anytime a crank or caset is higher it will be harder.
I hope i help!
Hydraulic disc brakes vs V-brakes?
Question:Am planning to buy a durable mountain bike but will be using it for serious exercise purposes only on smooth roads/trails. I am trying to decide between disc brake and V-brake --- hydraulic disc brake because it is said to enjoy more braking power and V-brake because it is quite simple to adjust by myself if needed. Are disc brakes thorny to maintain? Do they want frequent service/check from the bike shop? Please advise.
Answers:
Depends how normally you will go stale road and in what conditions. If you are using a mountain bike fundamentally for road purposes, get the V brakes (then again, you should be getting a road bike).But if you do run off road vote every other weekend or more, disc brakes would help you and hand over you peace of mind depending on what type of riding you do. If you go sour road during muddy or wet conditions, stir with discs. But if you are riding XC, V- brakes would be fine, discs would only just give you peice of mind inthat situation. Discs are not complex to maintain, they in recent times need to be bled every once surrounded by a while with a bleed tackle, just approaching cables stretch. I do not come up with you are to concious about weightiness, so the main factor would be stopping power and price. In some cases you need more stopping power regardless, within some cases it is nice but you dont need it, so catch the cheaper.
So:
Predominantly road-Vs unless discs cheaper
XC- Vs unless discs are cheaper or similarly priced
Agressive XC/ All Mt.- 6 inch discs
Downhill/Freeride- 8 inch discs
go beside disc, they are just as natural to maintain (cable type) as a V brake. They won't lose power when muddy or even raining to a point. You'll be happy next to them.
As for any other vehicle, disc brakes are famous for its consistent grip even during drizzling situation. V brake has more prone to wear n scratch factor than disc type. I suggest disc brakes.
Good luck! RIDE SAFELY.
Hydraulic disc brakes need to be bled properly merely like the ones on cars. Some use a mineral grease, others use actual hydraulic fluid which can damage the paint on the bike. The latter may also stipulation a little more running because the hydraulic fluid can damage parts of the brake lever (I've see it in Hayes hydraulic disc brake levers). You also necessitate to be careful not to contaminate the disc pad when bleeding. Also don't squeeze the lever without something between the pad (the rotor itself or a shim) because the pads will stick together and may capture air surrounded by the line when pried apart.Disc brakes do provide better stop power than the v-brake. They are also right if the rim gets bent where on earth v-brakes will rub a bent rim and may even have to be disconnected. V-brakes own a tendency to clog surrounded by mud which can gouge the rim or cause the brake not to work at adjectives. The pads for disc brakes run roughly $20 up for a set where on earth those for v-brakes run about $13 up for a twosome.
Ya, disc brakes will last an extremely long time. I enjoy them on my bike and I do downhill. Hayes MX-2 are nice, disc brakes can be sensative to crashes though so be careful of that. Other than that they will final you longer. The only entry people shy away from is the price.
Ok, disc brakes take more work during the set up process. But once they are set up, they're pretty much a set and forget type.
I really like disc brakes, but I muse that for paved roads and trails, a flawless V brake will be a good pick also. And probably lighter than most discs.
You don't need an hydraulic disc brake, consider the Avid BB-7 brakes, they're similar to 90 bucks each from www.pricepoint.com, after you would need some level (they're the same as for Vs since they're mechanical), for roughly speaking 40 or 50, depending on which ones you go for. And the cable.
You will wear out faster Vs pads than disc pad.
I would go next to the hydro's all of the means of access!
It depends on where and how ytou ride, plus how much you substance. For small, light riders who live surrounded by dry climates, stick to V-brakes.
I also find Vs a lot easier to work on. My Hayes-9 disc brakes are a bit glitchy and high-maintenance subsequent to all the Vs I've used. They're unquestionably more powerful and have a super-smooth consistency at the lever, but I have to look out not to touch the brake lever when I take a joystick off during a tire conveyance, or when I'm putting in the saloon. If you squeeze the lever with the tiller out, the calipers close, and you have to wrench the pad out and reset the piston. It take a few minutes, but can be an unwanted delay. Plus centering them is genus of tricky, and I've already bent a rotor after just a few months.
And don't bring back me started on bleeding the system...not fun.
Anybody who says Vs are harder to work on hasn't really worked on discs vastly much.
Since you'll be on pavement, save some money and immensity and stick to the V.
How do I budge abount converting my 18 speed bike to a stationary bike approaching they do within the induro cycling classes
Question:there's a induro cycling class that uses the gym I go to. People come within with their bikes and this stand that they set their bikes on. What are they using, how does it work, do you enjoy to purchase one or can you make your own?
Answers:
What they are setting their bikes on is a trainer. I hold a bike set up on one right next to me. Trainers change in price. You can check several of the online bike stores and find them on public sale at this time of year.
Idea is simple. Put your back pedals in a stand so it is past its sell-by date the ground. You have a resistance element that rubs against the tire. The resistance unit allows you to adjust the amount of the resistance you can put together it harder or easier. The biggest difference between trainer is how the resistance unit acheives its resistance. The more expensive unit are generally quieter. The cheaper unit use wind and are markedly noisy.
If you want a REAL indoor/ stationary dare & workout, forget the trainer and get a set of ROLLERS!
You'll gain a better workout AND improve your stability at the same time.
Downside is that rollers cost more than trainers and they hold a bit of a learning curve if you've never used them in the past.
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