Cycling Questions and Answers
Instructions for the "crank Brothers" multifunction bicycle tool?
Question:I know this may appear to be asking how to breath, and I clearly am NOT a bike mechanic. I figure that by learning how the tool works, I will also learn a lot about my bike!
Answers:
Although I'm not exactly sure what tools are on the Crank Bros. multi-tool, my educated guess is that it probably has a set of allen wrenches, a chain tool, a couple of screwdrivers, and some spoke wrenches.
The allen wrenches are used all over the bike - to raise or lower the seat (if it isn't a quick release), to change or adjust the saddle (underneath the saddle is a bolt that can be loosened to move the saddle forward and backward on the rails and to adjust the pitch of the saddle), to tighten the headset, to attach the stem, etc. Every bike rider should carry one - they are indispensable. The chain tool is used to remove the chain for thorough cleaning, although using a good lube (I prefer dry lubes like Rock 'n' Roll (or is it Rock 'n' Road) or White Lightning) and keeping your chain free of dirt usually does the trick. The spoke wrenches are for wheel truing, but if you don't know how to do this, it's best to have a professional mechanic handle it.
If you really want to learn about how the bike works, many bike shops offer basic bike repair courses. My favorite shop in Minneapolis taught you how to change the tires, do adjustments, repack the hubs, true the wheels, and more! The Bicycling Guide to Bicycle Maintenance and Repair and the Zinn Guide are also excellent reference books.
What are the benefits of have a bicycle form to be precise course above the handlebars?
Answers:
A seat that big is for people that are amazingly competitive. It makes the rider much more aerodynamic. This is fine for the pro's and the serious amateurs, but it might not work for you. It is more exalted to be comfortable in your riding position, otherwise riding may be too difficult to be fun. A bike fitting done by a trained professional should merely cos $25 to $35, and it will make a world of difference surrounded by the way you ride. I seize it done at least once a season. This is one entity that I recommend going to a high cease shop for. It is NOT a procedure for an inexperienced bike mechanic.
Good luck, and happy riding!
The most restructured setup is to have your bike form set so that it is waist high when you stand beside it. This might give the impression of being too high, and pocket a little getting used to at first, but you will thought you fatigue slower and have more power.
it is for a more well-run peddle cycle. It is so you get full extension of your legs when you peddle, this reduce strain and fatigue.
it puts you in a more aerodynamic position.
your shoulders are lower and your pay for straight,.
For many cyclists, this is the most updated position to be in. Generally, when you look at a serious cyclists (either road or mountain) bike, you will find the form above the bars. This provides them next to the best combination of comfort, power, and aerodynamics.
Do carbon frames require more maintainence than aluminum?
Question:i know you can beat the crap out of Al frames, but how do you treat and fastidiousness for carbon frames? im thinking particularly give or take a few the Specialized Epic carbon.
it just feel so frail and im a bit concerned rinding on something that feels so fragile. perchance im underestimating how strong it is, can you compare it to something of similar strength?
Answers:
Hm.. thats an interesting query.
I don't think that CF frames require MORE upholding than aluminum, but they do have DIFFERENT desires.
First, lets dance to worst scenario. If either frame is crashed it must be inspected thoroughly prior to riding. If any have ANY KIND of impair (dents, cracks, etc) then it is bye bye frame. Neither CF or aluminum can bar dents or cracks without eventually failing.
As a standard looksie, every time a CF frame gets a scrape it must IMMEDIATELY be sealed. I have an idea that Trek suggests nail polish which is as obedient as anything. CF can separate and also absorb moisture which will compromise the frame.
Both frames should be checked over weekly for cracks, especially at the bottom bracket/downtube/chainstay nouns and at the chainstay reinforcement (little piece right behind the bottom bracket, between the chainstays). It also pays to do a close check at any suspension pivot points. CF and alum both stress over time and will eventually show wear and come to nothing. Just a fact of vivacity. I have also see headtubes crack occasionally.
Regarding strength, there are no worries near either materials but it IS much easier to puncture or crack CF (it doesn't dent), while aluminum tend to fare better on impact.
That being said, aluminum may not show any signs of stress or downfall at all until it suddenly does. This is call "sudden catastrophic failure" which can and does happen especially on frames that push the envelope as far as tubing wall compactness and weight. Cannondale be (and maybe still is) economically known for cracked tubes and let-down without reproving.
I used to ride an S Works (Specialized "custom") Ultimate frame... had CF tubes and Ti lugs. I have about 11,000 miles on it (just over a year) previously I was no longer comfortable riding it.. started to grasp loose feeling. Now I ride any steel (Reynolds 853 or 753 depending on race or tour) or Paketa Magnesium have had my spread of the empty promises of both aluminum and CF.
I don't belive so, as long as you don't trash the frame it should be treated duplicate way a an aluminum
I other recommend AGAINST buying carbon MTB frames. Mountain biking puts so much abuse into the bike, adjectives it takes is one correct hit in a babyhead garden to interrupt the frame.
If the frame does not crack right there, it will enjoy been stressed ample to fail from typical MTB riding, possibly lacking warning. As long as the frame does not suffer any impact, it will last a long time. But whens the second time you saw a serious MTB racer with no dings on the frame? I hold a friend on my road team who have complete reconstructive surgery on his face after his two year feeble Trek carbon MTB frame snapped on a steep descent. Lucky for him he had suitable insurance. He doesn't even look like like guy.
Once you get a 'ding' within a carbon frame, you might as well throw it away (road or MTB). Any type of mess up that violates the integrity of the frame, such as a verbs into the tube from a rock, completely alters the stress distribution in the tube. Remember, these bikes are designed beside computers running Finite Element Analysis software, so they can make the tubes as wispy and stif as possible by putting material contained by the high stress areas where on earth it's needed, and removing from where it isn't. The knob is to distrubute the stress as much as possible. Physical damage to a piece of the carbon weakens it surrounded by that area, and become a point of fatigue.
Pros can get away next to carbon, since they get different bikes all the time. For us mortals, a carbon MTB frame is a doomed to failure investment.
The advantage of aluminum is that it's cheap, hurricane lantern, and stiff. It can't be repaired, but a new GOOD frame is merely a few hundred bucks.
Steel is a good substitute, but in command to get a suitable steel performance frame you hold to go next to an independant builder, and the frame will cost you well over $1000. Still, it rides really sweet, and it's repairable. If you pilfer care of it by stripping and cleaning the frame (not the paint) once a year, it will closing decades, otherwise, watch out for rust.
I chose Titanium. It's tough, insubstantial, doesn't rust, and is repairable. If you want a bike that lasts forever, jump with Ti.
carbon frames are S H I T you can lift a pair of plyers and crush them effortlessly
Where's the best place to buy a 10 speed men's bike at a right price?
Question:I don't want to spend much more than $100.00
Answers:
Check out Wal-Mart.seriously. They have clad bikes there for a honest price.
"DICKS", sporting goods
10 speed men's bikes R' Us.
Contact a local bicycle co-op they usually hold used bikes for sale cheap but are restored to excellent riding condition.
Is this a trick query ?
Hi Susie,
I am a little confused by your request for information. First because they don't sell clean 10 speeds anymore, if by 10 speed you mean 5 cogs contained by the back and 2 cuff rings in the front close to the bikes of old. and Second because you can't seize a bike for $100 if you mean one of the fresh 10 cog bikes that have any 20 (10x2) or 30 (10x3) speeds.
If you do want a road bike and ~$100 is your budget I would seriously consider a used bike at eBay. You do have to look sturdy and wait until other comes around, but I was competent to find and buy a very angelic, though old, 12 speed (6x2) bike within eBay for $85. I put about another $60 repainting it and shifting the seat and tavern tape and cable but it has thoroughly nice Shimano 105 components (3rd rung component level).
I would say a talent old bike beat a new Walmart bike hand down. It will have better standard (more durable) frame, good and more standard parts and will be much more of a cheeriness to ride. I have truly done a couple of centuries on my old 12 speed bike.
Good luck and comfortable shopping!
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