Cycling Questions and Answers
Who is the hottest rider?
Question:The Tour de France has of late kicked off. What do you infer? Who is the best looking this year?
I'll go for Tom Boonen. What roughly you?
Answers:
I agree.
Its hard to go and get a good look at here faces but i've see him in interviews, emphatically cute.
Yeah Tom is deffo the hottest
Tom Boonen or Yaraslav Popovych
Probably Leontien van Moorsel, but she's in the Tour Femincontained by. I'm into girls, sorry.
What is a right bike to use for a 20 miles trip?
Question:I'm going to be riding a bike to the beach it's a dirt trail not really and hill pretty straight the hole time, im looking for one thats under 300$
Answers:
Almost any entry height quality bike (ie bike shop bike, not a costco or target special) would work. I suggest a mountain bike or a comfort bike.
And you should swot up how to fix a flat tire in defence you get one far away from home or a bike shop. They should know how to teach you that at the shop where on earth you get your bike. Good luck and own fun!
a mountain bike. dual suspension will be expensive and not 100% efficient. front suspension might be ur best bet. u dont want a street bike since teh tires wont really support the dirt.
a nice road hybrid beside flat bars, 28mm tires, and a triple chainring front would be sweet...find an experienced rider to give a hand you find one...you may even be able to piece some used stuff together for a fine contraption
Why won't a 8/9 speed hub/wheelset fit on an elder bicycle beside a factory 6/7 hub?
Question:I've got an out-of-date Norco Kokanee that needs a rebuild hub, so I figured, why not upgrade to an 8-speed, but I notice that the sealed 8-speed hub/wheelset from my newer Marin won't fit the outmoded Norco frame (i.e., the hub is too wide for the nouns allocated). Why is this? Why aren't all frames/hubs a standard distance? Mostly, is there any means of access to get a 8-speed hub onto this bike, or am I stuck next to a 6/7? Thanks.
Answers:
I did it last week.
The process is unbelievably long, very stressful because of the risk, and overly frustrating.
First, one spreads the frame to 130mm between the dropouts. Only steel frames can be spread.
Next one runs a string through the dropouts and around the boss tube.
One continues to struggle with the frame until nearby is exactly an even measure between seatpost and string on both sides.
Next, one take the new rudder and attempts to center it in the frame. This won't work. It will be tilted to one side or the other.
Measuring from a cassette mark or pen red mark put onto the centerpoint of the new rim, and beside the tail of the ruler against the seat stay, one finds the narrowest side. Now one removes 1mm of bits and pieces from the dropout on that same side.
After that, the new rudder will be straight.
See Sheldon Brown's articles at harriscyclery.com
You can also take the bike to a long-established bike shop that happen to own a "frame table" to get more precise results or you can take/mail the bike to a builder to own it re-sized.
Also possible is the selection of a modern hub of the cup-n-cones (adjustable re-buildable) design.
Now, THAT is the uncomplicated way. Simply remove the spacer from the non-drive side. Stack axle spacer washers instead. When those, plus the bolt fits your 126 overlocknut dimension size, enjoy the hub adjusted correctly (easily done) and afterwards have a rim installed.
Whoops! If your backside derailler mounts with a bolt that go through the rear dropout, after you will also need to tag on a 1.5mm spacer underneath the bolt to the drive side or else a 12t gear (modern) will push the secure into the derailleur mounting screw. I also did that last week, so it would own been far easier only to re-space the hub and leave the frame alone. ;)
If you do this to an existing joystick, you will need to tighten the spokes on the drive side to re-dish the helm so that it runs centered through your brakes. Temporarily set your brakes close and as evenly spaced as possible. Use the brakes as you would a truing stand. Do lots of squeezing on the spokes to guess the tensions approximately even. As a finishing step, true the wheel for roundness short changing the dish.
The fasten that works from an 8 speed rear hub to a front crankset made for 6/7 is HG70 for Shimano 8 speed cassette or SRAM PC58 if you use the featherweight, high manners PG850 cassette. Chain must match cassette.
For a 9 speed flipside drive or a 10 speed rear drive, in attendance is no full compatibility to a crankset made for 6/7 speeds and you would need a replacement crankset.
At this time, you might index your old manacle to see if 24 links (a foot of chain) is more than 1/8" past the 1 foot dot. If so, you'd need a latest crankset anyway, so might as well progress 9 speed. The new Tiagra 9 is relatively a good effectiveness.
Whether 8 or 9, you can "hide" a Alivio 8, Deore 9 or Sram 9 (non-numbered Shimano-ready series) mountain "trigger" shifter at the top grip, cyclocross style, near the stem. This is from $24 to $55. Yes, it is a tight fit on road handlebars, but it works fantastic--no long achieve over the front. ;) A plain lever can shift the front derailleur with first-rate results. Nice ratcheting alloy models are to be found, and with those, there's no front indexing which can (and usually does) dance wrong.
A very giant quality shifting way out is an economy Campy (doesn't index the front) set matched to a Shimano drivetrain next to the $25 Jtek Engineering roller that plugs into a Shimano rear derailleur. These are more reliable than Shimano STI, and can be found for low prices. See the Jtek Engineering website for compatibility/selection.
I'd check aebike.com for shifter option at lower prices.
Also, Ultegra, Dura Ace, and non-series bar conclude shifters are available. These can be mounted on Paul Components Thumbies adapters so that you can locate shifting (time trial style) wherever you usually put your hand. Now, doesn't that make sense? Personally, I never, and oh, I suggest never, hold the bike completely over the front while riding. ;)
A Weinmann or low-priced Shimano hub will usually be of the cup-n-cones design. You can re-space those.
You'll need axle spacer washers (thin 1mm and 1.5mm washers), a spoke wrench (probably green Pedros), a cone wrench (probably 13/15mm Park), and the little cassette remover (installer) tool (Park FR-5) so you can put the cassette on.
The articles on harriscyclery.com will assist you to adjust the hub after you have re-spaced it. Hint: It should neither growl/grind or own any slack. This adjustment is exactly like adjectives other cup-n-cones parts like elder bottom brackets and all headset.
Why is the 8/9/10 wider than the 5/6/7?
A severely dished wheel is weaker, so to create room for the extra gears, the bike was widen. Today's mountain bike is 135mm but today's road bike is 130mm.
However, in command to prevent the rear rudder from being weaker, you can simply tighten the drive side spokes to a nice firmness. This results in a slightly firmer, but not weaker gearstick.
See you down the road!
The rear spacing on a mountain bike near 8/9 speeds is 135 mm from the inside edge of the flipside dropout to the inside edge of the other dropout. The 6/7 speed hubs for mountain bikes used a narrower spacing, somerimes it wa 126, sometimes 128, and sometimes 130mm, so the 135 8/9 won't fit!
However, there's other a however - if you have a steel frame it is unforced to spread the rear triangle and realign the dropouts and the backside derailure hanger when you are done so that the 8/9 hub can fit and the derailure is in correct alignment.
You can put a 7 speed cassette on the 8/9 hub so you won't enjoy to replace the shifters to 8 or 9.
A full 7 speed to 8/9 speed conversion ca turn into a big job.
If the fasten is stretched - and it probably is - it will have to be replaced to mesh correctly beside the new gears - and the 9 speed definetly uses a narrower cuff and the 8 speed should. This would the necessitate the replacement of the front chainrings because they are narrower as well to walk with the narrower secure. If you have rivited on chainrings you will own to replace the entire crank-set and the bottom bracket and this could cause you to hold to replace the front derailure.
It can be a can of worms to change one component on a drivetrain! You can try it one piece at a time but it can be bothersome.
What Daniel said. Mostly because older frames be made of steel which has some spring to it and can be bent to some extent and accomodate the 130mm 8-9spd hub. You can't do that beside more current aluminum frames because they will crack if bent similarly.
I say instead of messing around trying to upgrade an elderly Norco, buy a comparable new bike. It would be smaller quantity hassle and more than likely better than the Norco.
What are the best ways to strengthen your lower rear so you can ride longer and more comfortably?
Question:I'm just starting out surrounded by cycling and have found that I usually go and get some lower back headache not long into the ride, preventing me from riding as long as I could.
Answers:
I have this problem too. Try to relax your lower fund when riding and keep your posture resourcefully. Swimming and stretching do help. When you are riding, do stand up once within a while.
Lower back misery from bike riding can be from a misadjusted seat. You must hold the bike "fitted" to you, including the seat. Go put a bet on to the place you bought it, and ask them to adjust it for you.
Your supposed to tip your seat forward at a 10-15 level angle from horizontal.
First off is your bike the correct size? Do you own the proper stem length? If you think these are correct, afterwards it just a event of A. Just getting use to riding your bike B. Underdeveloped abdominal muscles. C. Tight hamstrings. I would suggest some unfinished stretches before and after riding, plus abdominal exercises. I wouldn't recommend tilting your saddle any way your best bet is completely flat. Also, insure that your saddle point is correct. Bicycling Bio-mechanics isn't an exact science there are several theories and philosophies that many citizens expose my best advice for you is to read as much as you can something like this and take the bits that work best for you. A suitable starting point is Greg Lemonds "Complete Book Of Bicycling" . I got this book when I first started riding and own used many of his principles along beside reading advice from Bicycling magazine, Velo word and the long defunct Bicycle Guide. So experiment but makes change slowly and in small increments no more than 1/2cm at a time and beside plenty of riding with respectively change to see how you quality. When you find that right combination make sure that you write it down for adjectives reference so you can verbs it to other bikes that you obtain. Plus its a angelic reference point to make subtle changes to your position as you procure older. I hope this help good luck within your quest!
Check your fit and the angle of your seat. Do sit ups and crunches to strengthen your abs, so they can cart some of the work off of your final. You can also do reverse crunches. Lay on your stomach with your legs out, put your hand out, like Superman, after slowly lift your upper chest rotten of the floor and then lower it. Also, if your posterior hurts alot, get a moral massage next to someone who can work your Quadratus Lumborum muscles AND your psoas/illiopsoas group. This can be uncomfortable, because it's worked through your tummy but it really works and makes your put a bet on feel so much better.
Have you considered a recumbent? Very comfortable on the final!
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